July 2010

Lum Yen in Mamaroneck Serves
Classic Cantonese Cuisine!

By Morris Gut

Lum Yen Chinese Restaurant has been owned and operating at the corner of Mamaroneck Ave. and Boston Post Road by the same family for over 37 years. It recalls those delectable memories of Cantonese-style Chinese cuisine of years ago, and oddly enough its’ tasty treasures are being rediscovered by a whole new generation of younger patrons. Walk in on any given evening and you will notice customers of all ages enjoying the bounty.

Years ago I asked John and Yolanda Lum, the original founders, what made their style of cooking so compelling (even addicting), and they simply said: “We use only the best quality ingredients, quickly sear them together in our large woks and add a big dose of pride in each of the dishes we cook.” Well said. The Lums were old-school, going back to the 50s and 60s when they came out of Canton, China. Amiable son Eugene Lum, who now runs the restaurant day-to-day, adds the mysterious notion that there is a: ‘Mother Sauce’ his father told him about long ago that serves as the basis of all Chinese dishes prepared here. Sort of like a well prepared mother stock.

About 3 years ago the Lums undertook a major renovation of the restaurant inside and out, contemporizing the physical premises but not tweaking much of the menu. And it is all quite pleasant: the front bar/lounge now faces Harbor Island Park, and the longtime staff friendly and knowledgeable tries to meet everyone’s expectations with pride.

We snuck in early one Saturday evening, just at the start of the dinner hour and we practically had the dining room to ourselves. I actually had several old-fashioned dishes in mind as we surveyed the menu. I longed for some of that old-time religion and hoped that it would still be there. And it was, delightfully so.

Our half order of Chinese Barbeque Spare Ribs was sublime, each rib plump, meaty and tender with that distinctive Cantonese flavor; we licked them to the bone. Our order of Cold Sesame Noodles, another old favorite, was heavenly and refreshingly cool: Lo Mein noodles topped with diced peppers and a peanut-sesame sauce. We enjoyed the hot towels after the rib course. They felt good as we wiped the juices from our hands.

For a main course we opted for a platter of their popular General Tso’s Chicken, chunks of herb crusted chicken with spicy peppers; and a side of spectacular Dry Sauteed String Beans, freshly-prepared, still crunchy with a bit of spice as well. The rice bowls were a good foil for each dish, along with a dash of that hot Chinese mustard and mild sweet duck sauce.
Want to go back in time even further? The menu still offers such Cantonese/American classics as: Chop Suey, Egg Foo Young, Chow Mein, and the ever popular Moo Shu wraps with choice of fillings. Next time perhaps.

Portions were generous and by the time we got our doggie bags and our fortune cookies along with our check the room had begun to fill up. We realized that the simple pleasures of Chinese/Cantonese cuisine are still alive and can be found with flavors fully intact at Lum Yen in Mamaroneck. I urge you to rediscover this gem again for the first time…

Lum Yen Chinese Restaurant is located at 100 West Boston Post Road, corner of Mamaroneck Ave., Mamaroneck, across from Harbor Island Park. The restaurant is open for lunch, dinner and take-out 7 days week, all day. Delivery service available daily 5 pm to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday to 10 pm. Price range at lunch: 4-course lunch served noon to 3:30 pm, $9.95 per person. Main courses from the dinner menu served all day: $11.95 to $37. for whole Peking style Duck. Complete 4-course dinner sets from $12.95. Bar/lounge with seating. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Free parking lot in the rear on Library Lane; municipal parking out front. Handicapped accessible. Banquet tables. Reservations suggested for larger groups. Phone: 914-698-6881. www.lumyen.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)

 

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